Plant Name: | Glycyrrhiza glabra |
Part Used: | Roots |
INCI Nomenclature: | Glycyrrhetinic acid |
Composition: | ≥ 98% glycyrrhetinic acid |
Use Level: | 0.5 - 1% |
Biological Activity: | Anti-inflammation Anti-edema Anti-erythema Anti-collagenase Anti-viral |
Cosmetic Uses: | Soothe chronic or acutely irritated skin Reduce undereye puffiness Prevent premature aging Relieve and repair cold sores |
The triterpene 18-β-glycyrrhetinic acid has a long history of use in the cosmetic industry. ViaPure® Licorice, a highly purified form of this popular ingredient, provides optimum activity.
The triterpene has been shown to reduce inflammation, and is widely used in products designed for sensitive skin.
In addition, 18-β-glycyrrhetinic acid is known to reduce erythema and edema, so it is recommended in suncare products and products designed to alleviate under-eye puffiness.
Recent research has shown that 18-β-glycyrrhetinic acid interacts with collagen and collagenase to prevent the breakdown of collagen and the extracellular matrix. This property makes ViaPure® Licorice useful for products designed to prevent premature aging and fine lines.
Because it has demonstrated activity against the herpes simplex virus, 18-β-glycyrrhetinic acid also finds application in products designed for cold sores.